Philodendron Varieties: How to Grow Indoors

The Philodendron genus contains hundreds of species of beautiful foliage plants. With their large, green, and glossy leaves, they are excellent for adding a bit of their native tropical flair to your home. These popular houseplants are known for their easy care.

There are two types of philodendrons to choose from: vining and non-climbing. The vining varieties grow several feet, usually requiring some support structure to climb on. Non-climbing varieties grow upright. In general, philodendrons have a fast growth rate.

All philodendrons are toxic to humans and pets.

Philodendron Care

Philodendrons make ideal houseplants thanks to their generally low-maintenance nature, but it's still important to provide proper growing conditions to keep your plant healthy. Here are the main care requirements for growing a philodendron:

• Place in a spot with bright but indirect light near a sunny window.
• Plant in slightly acidic, well-draining potting mix.
• Water when the top inch of soil has dried out. Moisture needs vary between the philodendron species.
• Provide a warm, humid environment.
• Regularly wipe the leaves with a damp cloth to free them from dust.
• Feed with a liquid fertilizer once a month during the growing season.

Light

Philodendrons need sun, but they would naturally receive dappled light under a tropical canopy rather than direct light. Set them up by a window that gets bright, indirect light. Too little light results in leggy growth with lots of space in between the leaves, but too much light burns their delicate leaves.

Soil

Philodendrons like loose, acidic potting mix that’s rich in organic matter. The soil must have good drainage.

The plants are sensitive to salts that accumulate in the soil via watering. This may result in leaf browning and yellowing. Periodically flush out some of the salts by watering your container thoroughly until water comes out of its drainage holes.

Water

Water this plant whenever the top inch of soil has dried out. Philodendrons generally like a moderate amount of soil moisture. Both overwatering and underwatering may cause the leaves to droop, so gauge when it’s time to water by the soil dryness rather than the leaves. Philodendrons don’t do well sitting in soggy soil, as this leads to root rot.

The non-climbing varieties tend to tolerate dry conditions slightly better than the vining species. Reduce your watering schedule during the winter dormancy.

Temperature and Humidity

The temperature tolerance of philodendrons varies based on the species. In general, they should not be exposed to temperatures below 55 degrees F. Protect them from cool drafts, such as those from an air-conditioning vent. These plants like humidity, so mimic their natural tropical environment by boosting humidity around them. Mist the plant every few days with water from a spray bottle. Alternatively, place the container on a tray of pebbles filled with water, ensuring that the bottom of the container isn't touching the water.

Fertilizer

Use a balanced liquid fertilizer monthly on your plant in the spring and summer. Follow the product label instructions to use the correct amount, and reduce feeding to every six to eight weeks in the fall and winter. If your plant isn’t getting enough food, its growth will be slower than normal, and its leaves might appear smaller than usual.

Types of Philodendron

Of the numerous types of philodendrons, here are a few popular ones:

• P. billietiae: Beloved among houseplant enthusiasts and collectors for its elongated, spade-shaped leaves, this is a climbing variety that appreciates a support like a moss pole or trellis. 
• P. bipinnatifidum: Also known as tree philodendron, this is a large plant with deeply lobed, lacy leaves.
• 'Birkin' philodendron: This variety offers thin white stripes on its green leaves, and it's sometimes referred to as white wave philodendron.
• P. burle marxii: Topping out around two to three feet tall, this philodendron has a bushy, climbing growth habit with medium-sized arrow-shaped leaves.
• P. erubescens: This is a vigorous climber with reddish stems and leaves. The philodendron 'Pink Princess' variety of this species grows with heart-shaped leaves that have pink variegated sections.
• P. gloriosum: Unlike popular trailing varieties, it has an upright growth habit with large green leaves featuring striking white veins.
• ‘Brasil’ philodendron: As a cultivar of the heartleaf philodendron, this species has signature heart-shaped leaves with lime green variegation. P. micans is a similar cultivar with deep green leaves.
• P. melanochrysum: This plant is a stunning climber with dark, velvety leaves powdered in bronze.
• 'Rojo Congo' philodendron: This hybrid has unique red and green coloring. Its leaves start coppery red as they emerge and mature to a deep green color.
• P. scandens: This plant is a very popular climber. It has heart-shaped leaves that are sometimes multicolored.
  
• P. selloum: This extra-large variety reaches more than 5 feet in width, and its split leaves are its signature trait (not to be confused with Monstera deliciosa, which also features split leaves).
  
• P. spiritus-sancti: Coveted for its elongated, sword-like leaves that reach up to 2 feet in length, this rare variety is native to a small region in Brazil,
• P. squamiferum: Commonly known as red bristle philodendron, these plants have large dark green, textual foliage that grows up to 18 inches long. The hairy stems develop a red hue once they mature. Popular hybrids (Philodendron squamiferum x pedatum) include 'Florida Green' and the variegated 'Florida Beauty'.

Pruning

If your philodendron vines get too long or leggy, cut them back using sterilized pruning shears or scissors. The best time to do this is in the spring or summer. It is safe to give your philodendron a light trim any time of year to remove yellowing leaves and trim spindly growth. It's best to cut just above a leaf node. Take your stem cuttings and use them for propagation.

Propagating Philodendrons

Philodendrons are easy to propagate from stem cuttings and division. Increase your own stock or give newly propagated pots of this popular houseplant to friends. The best time to propagate is in the early spring as the days grow longer. Here's how to propagate philodendrons from these methods:

How to propagate from stem cuttings:

1. You will need sterilized pruning shears or heavy-duty scissors, potting mix, a pot, and, optionally, rooting hormone.
2. Cut roughly a 6-inch portion of the stem, and place it in a water container to develop roots. Using a rooting hormone increases your chance of success with rooting, but it's usually not necessary.
3. Add more water as it evaporates. If sitting longer than two or three weeks in the same water, completely change the water to prevent algae or bacterial growth.
4. Once several roots have developed (usually within two weeks), pot the cutting in moist soil.

How to divide your philodendron:

1. Philodendrons often develop plantlets that can be removed from the main plant with their roots intact and transplanted once they grow several inches long.
2. The day before you plan to divide your plant, water the plant well. Dividing is traumatic for the plant, so you want your plant at its best.
3. You'll need a sharp knife, potting mix, and a new pot.
4. Remove the plant from its current container, place it on a flat, steady surface, use your fingers to loosen the root ball, and pull off the plantlet with its roots. Use a knife to help you cut through dense roots if necessary.
5. Replant the plantlet immediately in a fresh, moist potting mix. Use the opportunity to refresh the original plant in new potting soil or a slightly larger container.

Potting and Repotting Philodendrons

Plant a philodendron in a slightly larger container than its root ball with ample drainage holes.

It is recommended to repot a philodendron’s soil every couple of years, not only because its roots start poking out of the pot's drainage holes but also because the soil needs to be refreshed. The ideal time to repot is in the late spring or early summer. Select one pot size up. Gently remove your plant from its old pot, and place it in the new one with fresh soil at the bottom and around its sides. Then, water the plant thoroughly.

Common Pests & Plant Diseases

Philodendrons don’t have any serious issues with pests or diseases. However, they are susceptible to common houseplant pests, including aphids, mealybugs, scale, thrips, and spider mites. Treat pests with a mix of water and dish soap, natural insecticidal soap, or horticultural oil. If using dish soap, mix 1 tablespoon of dish soap per quart of water, then spray the whole plant from top to bottom.

Philodendrons are prone to mosaic diseases, especially dasheen mosaic disease, which is spread by aphids, contaminated soil or tools, or cuttings from a contaminated plant. This virus is identified by yellow streaks or lesions on the leaves and curled or distorted growth. As the virus cannot be cured, your best line of defense is to prevent it by controlling aphids and avoiding transmission to your houseplants in the first place. Infected plants should be discarded before they infect other aroids.

Common Problems With Philodendron

Philodendrons are easygoing plants, however, if their watering, light, and soil requirements are not being met, problems may occur. Here are some signs to look for:

Yellowing Leaves

Several issues cause yellowing leaves, such as giving it water that's too cold, not offering enough sunlight, or exposing the plant to too much bright light. If the older leaves are yellowing, then you may be under-watering the plant. If the younger bottom sets of leaves turn yellow, you may be overwatering the plant. In most cases, adjust these factors to see your plant rebound.

If you give plant food to your philodendron, be careful to water the soil first, add a water-diluted fertilizer solution, and then water the plant again. These extra steps ensure the roots do not get burned by the chemicals in the fertilizer.

Yellowing and Rotting Smell

Leaves turning yellow very quickly may be a sign of root rot. If you catch it quickly, you might be able to save the plant. Smell the soil for a rotting odor or dig up the root to inspect its health. In most cases, cut away the black, mushy pieces of rotting root and replant the white or yellow portions of roots in a clean container with fresh soil.

Browning Leaves

If your plant develops browning leaf edges, you may be shocking your plants with water that's too cold. Also, if your plant's leaves start to get brown and mushy, you are likely overwatering. Brown leaf edges that start to curl indicate the plant needs more water and less sun. Make adjustments accordingly.

Browning leaf tips with yellow halos may also indicate that your plant needs more humidity. Mist the plant's leaves or place the plant container atop a tray of pebbles filled with water to raise the humidity. Don't submerge the plant base; keep it right above the waterline.